Tribe.net. Local Connections Tedward http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#bf4c791e-d050-4330-8d76-da5027fdb18d 2009-06-14T21:00:25Z 2009-06-14T21:00:25Z

Yeah, that's why all our plumbers are dying early. Lisa, while that may be true for copper powder, it's not the same for copper metals, certainly not at the heat we produce. I think you may be confusing the warnings about using copper(II)chloride for making colored flames. Yes, that's very toxic, but that's due in large part of the free radicalization of chlorine, with ionized copper molecules left behind. Such chemical reactions do not occur in metallic copper.

Tedward 2009-06-14T21:00:25Z Lisa http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#cffe87bb-a4e7-4c9a-bf83-0d824d3c4ef7 2009-06-14T19:52:57Z 2009-06-14T19:52:57Z

I maybe getting the wrog pivture in my head here, but just for everyone's info, copper exposed to direct flame produces an EXTREMELY toxic smoke. Any copper used for fire hooping should consider this factor. However, I am extremely grateful to have finally found fire hoop instructions! Thank you!

Lisa 2009-06-14T19:52:57Z Nayha http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#5a4ebaff-82da-4d0e-92f5-2ca6ca286071 2007-10-12T11:17:14Z 2007-10-12T11:17:14Z

I made my hoop pretty much like most fire hoops, except i wrapped end of spokes (actually screwed in bolts) with a ball of wire, and then wrapped monkey fist knots around them, neatest way ive found to secure wicks

Nayha 2007-10-12T11:17:14Z anami http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#56560aa6-e850-4d20-9915-ed4bc2ba781e 2007-09-18T07:26:10Z 2007-09-18T07:26:10Z

i put the carriage bolt head on the outside it caps my wick and makes it look nice.

anami 2007-09-18T07:26:10Z anami http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#727e2335-4cc6-40b4-ad31-4e20842c0c46 2007-09-18T07:24:46Z 2007-09-18T07:24:46Z

Actually the wick bolt just screws right out. i was saying if you wanted perminance you could use JB weld. i just use a little plumbers tape now and then. mine are collabsible with removable spines as well. i stop the bolt from going deeper into the tubing than i want by placing a nut that firms to the tubing and damaging the threads on the other side.

anami 2007-09-18T07:24:46Z rich http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#62050209-5e68-4a6a-b5ba-ba0f1747375f 2007-09-11T00:33:37Z 2007-09-11T00:33:37Z

I did burn twice in a row, maybe 5 minutes between. It still wasn't hot enough that I was worried about melting. The thing works awesome! I'm lighting up tonight too.

rich 2007-09-11T00:33:37Z Tedward http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#05cb0633-99e9-4c0f-97a8-58f9d9944274 2007-09-05T19:35:24Z 2007-09-05T19:35:24Z

Did you ever burn it twice in a row? Or did you burn it, let it get cold, then burn again?

Tedward 2007-09-05T19:35:24Z rich http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#866070c0-43a7-4a3e-acf5-33bbd18cf191 2007-09-05T18:45:34Z 2007-09-05T18:45:34Z

I used the fire hoop all through Burning Man. It worked awesome. No breaks or wobbles and it's pretty light. This is the first fire hoop I've used that felt pretty much like a normal hoop. One note: The copper does conduct heat well so the inside got pretty hot. I covered the area of copper exposed on the inside with gaffers and that solved it. It didn't seem to get hot enough to melt the plastic even though I have short 5" spokes

rich 2007-09-05T18:45:34Z Tedward http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#c0b36449-1902-48e4-b055-896c114f9192 2007-08-22T08:05:13Z 2007-08-22T08:05:13Z

cut a squre hole on the inside. If you need to, use a small drill bit at high speed and push sideways GENTLY. it should move through the plastic slowly.

Tedward 2007-08-22T08:05:13Z Pyro http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#164019f8-11c8-4f27-b096-f1a03188b0c8 2007-08-22T07:12:25Z 2007-08-22T07:12:25Z

oh yeah and then how do you make the carriage bolt head flush to the inside of the hoop?

Pyro 2007-08-22T07:12:25Z Pyro http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#5a1b75da-4f29-4eec-bcd8-0c5a3eafa151 2007-08-22T07:11:54Z 2007-08-22T07:11:54Z

ahhhh, now I get it. You put the carriage bolt from the inside out, and then place the washers and nuts on the end of the bolt to hold the wick. The only problem i see with that formula is that you cannot remove the wick/bolt for transportation. A genius way of doing it though for simplicity's sake.

Pyro 2007-08-22T07:11:54Z anami http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#cfb4fb26-0b86-4049-93cc-245173872e5b 2007-08-20T17:18:25Z 2007-08-20T17:18:25Z

my tnut is on the outside side, looks like yours is inside. To simplify that part. MAke a hoop. Press tnut into outside of hoop. cut 6 inch section of hoop, cut slit in the back and drill hole in the oposite side. TAke carriiage bolt with washer washer nut nut on it and push through hole in 6 inch section and thread into t nut. Place bottom nut against plastic 6 inch which is now clamped like a sleeve onto the hoop. secure nut then damage the threads on outside of nut to keep it from moving. (cause tnuts are tubes) attatch wick between washers and secure bottom washer with nut. As an automotive student i will through in that lock tite just seals threads from fluid (like coolant) seeping through the threads, but if you twist it hard it comed out. It helps like plumbers tape does but is not perminant. Use the JB weld for perminance :)

anami 2007-08-20T17:18:25Z anami http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#c23076f7-8a01-43cd-801f-bcb6ead21721 2007-08-20T17:06:38Z 2007-08-20T17:06:38Z

JB welded the jb part is important. welding it will melt it for sure. :) JB weld is an industrial bond that works for ...say.. repairing a crack in your cars engine block. Good stuff . Dont get it on anything you dont want bonded :) pyro, did you get my pics?

anami 2007-08-20T17:06:38Z rich http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#a0aa681e-df9c-46a3-9d7f-f51d237ecb1f 2007-08-18T15:24:02Z 2007-08-18T15:24:02Z

I think Anami's method is inherently different though I'm also having a bit of difficulty understanding exactly how it goes together. The T-nut I found is about 3/8" deep, so I threaded slightly less than 3/8" of the 4 Gauge copper. Since I'm actually creating the threads, I control how deep it penetrates the T-Nut. I'm also going to apply Lock-Tite to this assembly when I finish everything. (Lock-Tite is a threading glue that fixes threading forever.) I'm out of town now but I'll post pics soon.

rich 2007-08-18T15:24:02Z Pyro http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#975d7905-f69d-4e34-a31b-b0c7490a3223 2007-08-18T02:39:01Z 2007-08-18T02:39:01Z

Rich, thanks for the drawing. Could your method be modified using a t-nut and a carriage bolt (like anami suggested)? I'm still having a hard time following anami's instructions, but the carriage bolt/t-nut combo seems simple and easy enough that it could work. And how do you stop the screwing in of the thread/bolt into the t-nut (since t-nuts are open on both ends). thx.

Pyro 2007-08-18T02:39:01Z Tedward http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#e4db48b3-e513-413b-8c8e-8bfe47dfbca8 2007-08-17T21:27:57Z 2007-08-17T21:27:57Z

Right on. Yeah, I think guage sizes actually were the denominator so 1/4" = 4 gauge sounds about right. Yeah, that should be fine. I just got to thinking of a coat-hangar hoop I saw once that had 'fluttering' wicks. Smacked the maker in the face with one during the first use. Very silly. I doubt it's the threading that causes the spine to break. steel is pretty brittle, particularly after heat treating, and aluminum just starts that way. Copper is an interesting choice, but beware, it's also known for it's thermal conductive properties.

Tedward 2007-08-17T21:27:57Z rich http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#22c3af28-c7ce-47db-b3e5-c10675a01806 2007-08-17T21:12:24Z 2007-08-17T21:12:24Z

4 gauge is a little under a 1/4" diameter. This stuff feels stiffer than the threaded post I've used before. But unlike the threaded crap, this stuff doesn't break after bending a few times. We'll be finishing the hoop up tonight and trying it over the weekend. I'll post the results.

rich 2007-08-17T21:12:24Z Tedward http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#6cb46652-e563-4dae-9fc5-a379ac6adccc 2007-08-17T19:54:00Z 2007-08-17T19:54:00Z

Mmmm flexible copper wire.... hehehehe 4 gauge sounds pretty big, but if you get any wobble, it's probably from the copper.

Tedward 2007-08-17T19:54:00Z rich http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#5ac02b2c-2b57-45e4-a562-b1758c5f2195 2007-08-17T19:16:27Z 2007-08-17T19:15:14Z

I just made some new spokes. I haven't tried them yet but they seem like they are going to be way better than the threaded post hoop I used before. It was simple enough and not too expensive. This is essentially a modified version of a suggestion I found somewhere else on tribe. The copper is light and can be bent over and over again without breaking so if you bend them, just bend it right back. They seem like they'll take a beating, but again, I haven't tried it yet. Here is a quick drawing of the spoke: http://people.tribe.net/rich_slo/photos/d80725f5-8a95-48a7-8240-0592c1d125b0 Shopping list for 6 spokes. I found all of these pieces at my local hardware store, home depot should have everything too. (6 ft) of 4 Gauge Bare Copper wire. (6) 10-24 T-nuts (without the teeth) (12) 1 " diameter washers w/ 3/16 hole (6) 10-24 Hex head nuts (6) Shaft Collars (size as small as will fit around the copper wire, these cost about $2 each) I'm ordering 2ft. of 1" Kevlar for each head to make a cathedral wick. Necessary tools: (1) 10-24 Die and handle for threading the copper (this cost me about $15 but would have been impossible without) (1) Vice grips (to hold copper wire while threading). I used regular pliers but it was a serious pain to. I highly recommend getting vice-grips if you don't have them. You will also need something to cut this heavy wire, wire cutters make it tough. A hack saw would be fine. I used an angle grinder. Not including the Die and Vice grips, I spent about $4 on each spoke using all stainless steel hardware. Instructions: 1- Cut your spokes. I made mine 9". 2- Thread each end of each spoke using the die and vice grips. This is tough to get started. The wire seems too big but I made it work. Just took a little muscle. 3- Attach a T-Nut to one end. 4- Drill holes in your hoop that just barely fit the copper wire. Make it tight. Force the spoke though. Tape over the T-nut to hold in place. 5- Slide the Shaft collar over the spoke and then one washer. 6- I haven't made my wick yet, but I plan on using a 1" Kevlar Cathedral wick. A friend is showing me how to do this part, but essential you start two pieces at a 90 degree angle, then fold them over each other one at a time (just like we did as kids with paper). When finished, drill a whole and slip over the copper wire. 7- Add one more washer and then a nut. 8- Adjust location of colar shaft. Hope this works. Good luck.

rich 2007-08-17T19:15:14Z Pyro http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#edfad04e-f060-454d-92db-29e2efc88dc2 2007-08-14T20:55:01Z 2007-08-14T20:55:01Z

A simple t-nut welded to the hoop... much clearer and easier! Still semi-confused on the specifics, but this is definitely doable. Thanks anami you rock.

Pyro 2007-08-14T20:55:01Z anami http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#36034a26-8162-49e8-82fa-ebe23e9930bd 2007-08-13T23:36:15Z 2007-08-13T23:36:15Z

ok, first off this is an old thread, therefor the hoop it describes is so last years model :) The new hoop instructions i have been sending out, i think, were clearer. But now i have a smashtastic new design! BY the way, yes nut, washer, rubber washer tubing, nut. And it stays together with the magick secret ingreadient, duct tape. This is also how it comes together. You pad the cleft on the inside of the hoop and then wrap it in the duct tape (colored or black duct makes it pretty) Another way to do it to get a flush connection is to use sections of 1 1/4 tubing and cut a 3/8 slit in the side. That way when you wrap it around the 1 inch tubing it is flush. Also i have now merged my two hoop designs (old style and tnut) into one hoop eliminating some bulk and adding the features of removable spins. This is done by replacing the nut and washer assembly with a tnut. i bored a hole and seated the t nut, then i JB welded it and then put duct tape over the top, completely covering it, then i took and xacto knife and cut out around the threaded hole. The clamp the tubing peice over the top and center it using the spine. Put some duct on each side, then remove the spine and wrap it securely cover this with heat tape (just for incase) and then wrap the whole hoop to your liking (i am now using 7 inch spines and have no melting of my top tape) Cut around the threaded holes again and there ya go. i have now also made my hoop break down with quick release tabs. Push a button and it comes into three peices in less that thirty seconds and also snaps together just as fast and it is secure. i will be selling these connector peices when i get back from burning man for $5 a piece. To keep the bolt securely in the tnut you have to do some damage to the threads in a certain way, but this is all hard for me to jot in legible fashion in the short stints i am on the internet. THis is why i invite everytime any one mentions wanting a diy hoop to drop me a line and i send complete thought out instructions to their email. And many people choose to call and be walked through it. MAking a fire hoop is hard to describe for everyones understanding at the same time. So i will be rewriting my instructions and packaging them with a prepurchased kit of supplies when i return from the burn. Much as you have a deadline, pyro, i do too, all the fun new toys and costumes i am making too :) IF you are having trouble and your deadline is the burn, i will be there with my hoop to show and engeneering trials and errors to share. i can help people make and or finish their hoops there. i will be camped at the devils workshop, but i can not gaurentee when i will be there (duh) but i will help if i am and many people who i have taught to make hoops will be there as well. As for screw hole housing, it comes down to if your a metal fabricator who can make a hoop with built in threads or if you are shopping at a regular harware store that doesnt make special orders :) This new method is probably a little different bt very similar to what you have in mind:) a

anami 2007-08-13T23:36:15Z Tedward http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#5366e787-4001-4329-8185-6c90c135d2db 2007-08-13T06:50:54Z 2007-08-13T06:50:54Z

Yeah, outside tricks are pretty much out, and we discovered what discouraged the early testers: circular convection. Not sure if that's the name for it, but if you make a complete ring with fire and allow air to flow through the air forms it's own jet. Makes for big ole flames, no matter how big the ring. Anyway, yeah, it's been mastered (misstressed?) by Lady Lava. http://tribes.tribe.net/volcanoflux/photos/d6a6f176-2d48-4f39-aa3b-a828092b5063

Tedward 2007-08-13T06:50:54Z Pyro http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#70bac444-58dc-41bd-996e-d739c2fb9574 2007-08-13T06:24:13Z 2007-08-13T06:24:13Z

Anami: Your fire hoops specifications are great, but I'm having a hard time figuring out exactly how you are putting all the nuts and washers together. Let me specify where I'm having difficulty understanding: " Next you will make each wick section. Cut the poly butaline tubing lengthwise down it’s inside curve using the pocket knife. If you leave it out in the sun, it’s like butter, a hairdryer can give you margarine. Poke a hole with the pocketknife in the center of the out side of the hoop. Make sure it is centered, this is where your wick extends and it needs to be straight. Do not despair if the knife didn’t cut perfectly straight or you only got the hole apparently in the right spot. You can perfect it later it is just easier if it is straight." Okay, I understand about slicing the hoop, and about making a hole on the outer part of the hoop where the wick will be inserted. What i don't understand is after all the wicks are attached, what do you do with the inner part of the tubing that has been cut? Glue it back together? Just leave it as it is and let your gaffer/vinyl tape decorations cover it up? Next questions: "Add the optional metal washer and a nut. Use the nut even if you are skipping this washer. Add the other nut. Stick it through the hole. Add a rubber washer then the small metal washer the other rubber washer and the lock nut. Tighten with pliers. Pry open the split and force the structure inside the tubing. Wrap wick around the end and affix. Or cathedral fold and wedge it on before you build the structure, but it is really, really hard. Make sure your wick has enough space to hold fuel but is not loose. Snug is a good term. Secure the optional washer against the end with one nut and use the other to tighten the base in opposition to the inner lock nut." This entire process has me perplexed. Are you gluing the nuts and washers together? Are you fastening the nut to the outer hole? It seems like what you are saying is this: Nut->Washer->Nut: Stick all this through the outer hole. Is it one nut outside and one nut inside with the washer on the inside of the tubing? How does all this stay fastened (glue?)? And then to the outer nut a rubber then a metal washer and a lock nut... all on the outside of the tube? And then you say "tighten with pliers.' Um... if I have 3 nuts and 3 washers all lined up together, unless there is a bolt through all of them or they are glued they can't stay together. So I just don't understand what you are doing to fasten this entire structure together. And then finally you are saying to put this through the inner split... is that the entire structure from the outside, forced through the outer hole and then through the inner slit of the hoop? Final questions: "So take a spoke and lay it just out side of the hoop, across from the split where you put it together. Mark with tape the spot where the spoke extends from and just outside each side of the wick structure. Measure from the centerline the distance between and mark. All the way around the hoop. Then take your wick structure and match the spoke up to the centerlines and mark the sides. Pry the structure open and clamp it on sandwiched between the tape marks. Twist the tubing until the spoke is sticking straight out and not leaning in any way. Secure with duct tape. Once you push hard on the wick, the nut will indent the tubing and the spoke will gravitate towards that created center. Pad the back ridges with duct tape and wrap in flue tape extending at least a little beyond the structure. " Pry the structure open? Which structure are you talking about? Why are you twisting the tubing? Is it you have just made the wicks and are just jamming it in the hoop? I thought all the nuts and washers were pushed through the hoop? What exactly are you putting in the hoop at this point? Please note I have never made a hoop, but am looking to do so. This thread is pretty much the only thing I can find online that has a "do it yourself" type of fire hoop instructions. I have made other fire tools before (poi, staff), so I have an idea on how things attach and can go together. Basically what I had seen and imagined in making a fire hoop is a screwhole housing around the hoop that you could just screw your carriage bolt into - with the carriage bolts holding your wicks at the end. In this manner you could unscrew the bolts for transportation. Since we're coming up on a deadline, I can't exactly invent my own fire hoop which is why I'm asking for some clarification (and i'm not trying to sell anything just want to make one fire hoop for personal use). I thank you in advance for further advice and clarification. Pyro

Pyro 2007-08-13T06:24:13Z anami http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#c9bd1be2-1909-448b-acc5-9403ebd72813 2006-02-08T22:09:26Z 2006-02-08T22:09:26Z

Your sun hoop ring always intimidated me, Ted -War. i saw it years ago on your site and knew i could never use it because i am not always just in the middle of the ring. The site once said you had never tried it. Is that still so? i would be impressed to see it as well. i imagine i could spin it but not do anything fancy or too dancy. i always wanted the open grab space of spokes, allthough the first design i thought up had chain wick like poi. YOSH! The darn things don't need to be swinging!

anami 2006-02-08T22:09:26Z Tedward http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#78ba6921-e645-4363-a007-f209193d46a8 2006-02-06T00:19:14Z 2006-02-06T00:19:14Z

"my fire hoop is unconventional " Dee, your hoop sounds a lot like my Sunhoop ring, with a 15' countach wick going all the way around. I've only every seen 1 performer manage a full burn, so I applaude you for managing a similar feat. I gotta know, though, do you have long hair?

Tedward 2006-02-06T00:19:14Z anami http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#e31e4883-457d-4dd5-aa73-2bfcdde588e4 2006-02-05T19:05:44Z 2006-02-05T19:05:44Z

Sorry temporarily stunned by the knee to head flame thing, and i though i made fat wick! i also like renegade for wick as they are the cheapest. i have also re written my instructions. i have photos stuck in a camerra, i should try to get those. i know this is long but here are material lists and instructions for two types of hoop. The old style is super indestructable. The second alows for removal of the wicks for portablility. anami’s old style hoop Materials: 1 hoops worth of polybutaline tubing 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch. “Thin wall” or 180psi. An additional 3/4 of a foot section of tubing of the same size per wick spoke for each spoke desired (i use five for personal reasons, many like less for more off the body work or many for, well i don’t know ask someone who uses seven; -) The same number of threaded carriage bolts as the number of wicks you want. These should be at least 6 1/2 inches long or longer. IF you have trouble finding longer carriage bolts as I sometimes do you can get away with 6 inches which every hardware store seems to carry. You can pick a width too, but bear in mind strength vs. weight. i like 5/16 and find it very durable, though a little heavy. 1/4 bent on me if the hoop hits the ground linearly. If you are not in the US these measurements may not work. You can likely figure out for length, for width use the same common sense. Strong but not so heavy or large it inhibits you. For each wick structure you need: 1 matching lock nut per spoke 2 matching hex nuts 2 metal washers, 1 smaller than 3/4 inch across and one to secure the wick so no larger than you want your wick (i.e. if you want a short burn, small wick roll, or a long burn large wick roll don’t have metal sticking beyond the wick roll) This last washer is wholeheartedly unnecessary and adds hot metal. i have no idea why i put these on every time. But fire marshals seem to like it and i have always done it. You’re hoop, your choice. Achem, back to the list… 2 rubber washers per spoke ? ft of 2 inch Kevlar wick per spoke. (Size matters i use 3 1/2 fit for rolls the size of an average staff wick these burn for a long ass time. 5-7 min. Staves being larger in diameter to begin with only use about 2 1/2 inches of wick for a burn time of 3-4 min (all of these times and lengths are approximated) You will also need something to affix your wick with. Screws that do not extend outside of the wick will work As will sewing it using Kevlar thread, a big fat needle and a pair of pliers. There is a safteypinning technique which has added benefits, ask me about it if you want, this is starting to get wordy already and this is just the materials list! You’ll need to gather either a pvc cutter, a hacksaw or a serrated knife You’ll need a sharp pocketknife, a tape measure, a roll or two of high temperature flu tape, like for wood stoves. And the secret ingredient…the most important…the savior of hoop building…. Ahhh yes, duct tape. So, in case you printed this out and are standing in the hardware store, do you now have… I hoop ?X cap sections ?x carriage bolts ?x lock nuts ?x 2 hex nuts ?x 2 metal washers ?x 2 rubber washers and a buncha wick and tools? Ok you look ready to me (visions of Goofy’s instructional recording cartoons flashes in my head) Let’s begin… Make out of the PB tubing a hoop as you normally do, fill with weight or not as you do (model train gravel is nice for many reasons.) i like to hold it together with duct tape. Next you will make each wick section. Cut the poly butaline tubing lengthwise down it’s inside curve using the pocket knife. If you leave it out in the sun, it’s like butter, a hairdryer can give you margarine. Poke a hole with the pocketknife in the center of the out side of the hoop. Make sure it is centered, this is where your wick extends and it needs to be straight. Do not despair if the knife didn’t cut perfectly straight or you only got the hole apparently in the right spot. You can perfect it later it is just easier if it is straight. Add the optional metal washer and a nut. Use the nut even if you are skipping this washer. Add the other nut. Stick it through the hole. Add a rubber washer then the small metal washer the other rubber washer and the lock nut. Tighten with pliers. Pry open the split and force the structure inside the tubing. Wrap wick around the end and affix. Or cathedral fold and wedge it on before you build the structure, but it is really, really hard. Make sure your wick has enough space to hold fuel but is not loose. Snug is a good term. Secure the optional washer against the end with one nut and use the other to tighten the base in opposition to the inner lock nut. Ta DA a wick structure. Make them all like that. Now take your hoop and measure around the outside of it. Divide that number by the number of wicks you have. This number is the measurement between the spokes. So take a spoke and lay it just out side of the hoop, across from the split where you put it together. Mark with tape the spot where the spoke extends from and just outside each side of the wick structure. Measure from the centerline the distance between and mark. All the way around the hoop. Then take your wick structure and match the spoke up to the centerlines and mark the sides. Pry the structure open and clamp it on sandwiched between the tape marks. Twist the tubing until the spoke is sticking straight out and not leaning in any way. Secure with duct tape. Once you push hard on the wick, the nut will indent the tubing and the spoke will gravitate towards that created center. Pad the back ridges with duct tape and wrap in flue tape extending at least a little beyond the structure. Decorate as desired. If your wick starts getting shabby, unwind it and rewind it the other way and reaffix. Have fun, don’t get burned. i am about to make a new evolution of hoop! Request an update if you want to know more i am making a new one for Halloween if I can find the time. And will let you know if it worked well enough o pass on. It features removable wicks and simplified construction. :update: This rocks. Insert t nuts where the spokes go. Bond with glue duct tape and high temp flue tape. Do away with the hoop fixture entirely and just thread the carrage bolt into the t nut. Use plumbers tape every time to reduce the likelihood of slipping. Skip the washer and if you want or even the nut, that holds the wik to the end, personal preference. This method removes the ability to have an internal wheight. If you like that extra click to your swivel use the old style method. If you need help, have questions or want pictures, just let me know ::::::::: If you are going to make money off of selling these hoops, you must contact me first! You will have to pay for all of this design and engineering if you make money off of it. Also, please do not reprint these instructions without asking me first, I will probably say yes, so JUST ASK!!!!!

anami 2006-02-05T19:05:44Z anami http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#c5f0c036-1d93-4b3a-aa84-cf0575a3b5b1 2006-02-05T19:01:22Z 2006-02-05T19:01:22Z

holy shit man!

anami 2006-02-05T19:01:22Z Stephanie http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#b6a67cc8-725e-48a4-b9ff-078d4075e250 2006-02-02T03:39:45Z 2006-02-02T03:39:45Z

Thank you Reagan you rock

Stephanie 2006-02-02T03:39:45Z Reagan http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#0a0d49a4-2b62-4bc9-8771-8c77f3496736 2006-02-02T02:55:23Z 2006-02-02T02:55:23Z

bump. someone was interested in making a fire hoop.

Reagan 2006-02-02T02:55:23Z deefactorial http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#5dc5d779-cddc-43cb-a1d8-95cf48822f4a 2005-08-11T23:13:08Z 2005-08-11T23:13:08Z

my fire hoop is unconventional to say the least, I'm still refining the process after a year of spinning it. its a 1" aluminum tube with holes drilled into it vertically every inch. I wrapped it with kevlar rope 1/4" like how you would wrap hair. then I have an inner 1" poly pipe hoop; I lace the inner hoop through the holes in the outer aluminum hoop. its massive. it weighs so much and the flames are way too big. I have to wear a gas mask while hooping it and I have to cover every part of my body or it will get burned. to give you an idea of how big the flames are. if I hoop it around my knees, the flames are at head height. I'm going to shambhala and I'm bringing my hoop. hope to see others out there. peace, deefactorial

deefactorial 2005-08-11T23:13:08Z Dawn http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#34dee332-8310-42b9-b4ae-52bfad2be5b6 2005-08-05T18:34:14Z 2005-08-05T18:34:14Z

Do you have any photos of a hoop like this? That would really help. Thanks!

Dawn 2005-08-05T18:34:14Z Dawn http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#23adaf49-f7ba-4437-9952-cbd74b9afb25 2005-08-05T18:31:25Z 2005-08-05T18:31:25Z

Do you have photos of this process or a completed hoop? The detailed instructions are awesome, but a photo or two (espeically of the joints) would be great! Thanks.

Dawn 2005-08-05T18:31:25Z .lady. http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#0135c80f-805e-4737-8c5d-13c71db91e14 2005-08-04T20:34:00Z 2005-08-04T20:34:00Z

could someone please post a list of JUST HARDWARE that you need to buy (not instructions for how to put it together)? i would just like a simple list (not including tubing) of the literal "nuts and bolts" needed to make a 4 or 5 wick hoop. thanks!

.lady. 2005-08-04T20:34:00Z Tom http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#a4fa9a12-1031-4dc7-a5cf-e55ea07206fa 2005-07-20T15:51:53Z 2005-07-20T15:51:53Z

Came up with this last night: once you attach the nut securing the wick, pound the copper so the nut can't come off :) How's that for safety! 'course, you may have to cut the tip off for wick maintenance, but you're only going to cut 1/4" of anyway, right? Only 1/4"? No, I said 1/4"!

Tom 2005-07-20T15:51:53Z Katri http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#035aa52d-bfe1-4874-a644-23e331dced04 2005-07-20T02:46:57Z 2005-07-20T02:46:50Z

awww damn. really, thanks for the words of wisdom. i haven't finished my hoop yet so there isn't that much to re-do...but dang, I was really proud of the job I did. shit. I really REALLY don't want to send a 'meteor'. and I'd figured out how to solve the locknut-on-the-inside problem too. alright, enough whining. back to the drawing board :(

Katri 2005-07-20T02:46:50Z Tom http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#ced83a7f-4c20-400b-894c-017d2d82a04b 2005-07-19T20:01:04Z 2005-07-19T20:01:04Z

Fire hoop instructions for the trickster and/or klutz Threaded rod knowledge the hard way: * Threaded rods are cheap, but the maintenance time for them is prohibitive. * Threaded rods are brittle (think aluminum). Hitting them on the ground then bending back to shape causes wear that will quickly lead to a meteor during a performance. * Threaded rods become brittle in cold weather and may snap even while 'normal' hooping. This has happened a half dozen times, at least, in my troupe. Rod production for the professional: * Use 4 or 6 gauge copper wire. Attach a non-barbed T-nut to one end, creating threads in the copper by shear force. * Once threaded, Gorilla Glue the copper to the T-nut. * Wrap your wick around a spacer that fits over the wire. You can search near and far and maybe find a spacer, or create your own: ** Using coat hanger wire, wrap around the copper spacing coils 1/4-1/2" ** Bend wire back over itself to create a cloths-pin ** Remove spacer and roll wick around it. Use another piece of coat hanger to secure the wick. This may not be the prettiest method...I haven't tried the diaper-pin described by anami * The coat hanger spacer method makes for a very tight fit of the wick to the copper so little more is needed to secure the wick. ** Force a regular bolt (or locking, I suppose, but the plastic bushing may melt) onto the other end of the copper, creating threads as you go. * Drill holes just smaller than the copper and push the wire through the hoop from the inside, forcing the T-nut into place. Re-tap the inside if your hole is too small for the T-nut. * Tape in place. * Put wicks on and secure with a 1 1/4" fender washer and nut. This design allows the hoop to be thoroughly abused and wicking to be replaced very cheaply. It is a very light weight design and the future of professional fire hoops, in my humble opinion. Hoopsur'a

Tom 2005-07-19T20:01:04Z Qathi http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#066dc5a2-c7a3-4b50-a9a1-0c01fcae93b6 2005-07-19T00:00:32Z 2005-07-19T00:00:32Z

can you post a picture of this - I'm not getting the mental imag from your instructions - I'm lame. I have a fire hoop that I hate, if such a thing could be possible. I saw one last week with threaded rod - the threaded rod screwed into some fitting inside the tubing - me want to make one like that. arg I'm not crazy about the rod through the hoop, my spidey senses tell me it's pinch my squishy bits.

Qathi 2005-07-19T00:00:32Z Katri http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#f61230c2-0c3e-4a3e-9ee6-eaa86042ca1e 2005-07-18T18:28:28Z 2005-07-18T18:28:28Z

made my first fire hoop a few days ago. still need to finish taping it but wanted to share a suggestion for those of you taking on such a project: I couldn't find carraige bolts as long as I wanted so I got a couple of lengths of threaded rod...3' lengths, a variety of diameters are available, but that way I could cut 12" long spokes. Doubled up the nuts on the ends (hold the one on the inside steady with a wrench while tightening the other against it with another wrench---presto! locknuts!) I've got some woven fiberglass sheeting and epoxy that I think I might use on the spots of the hoop where the nut is on the inside..should be heat resistant, and I found 6" wide muffler repair tape that I hope is a good choice for taping the hoop in between the spokes...don't want that tubing getting all wambly. Gotta borrow a digital camera to take pictures to share, but this will happen soon. yaaaaaaaay! Thanks for the inspiration and encouragement on this thread! I've been stuck on wanting to do this for a long time but scared I'd fuck it up.

Katri 2005-07-18T18:28:28Z Reagan http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#3cee75dc-a194-47eb-87d2-75fc21126ea4 2005-07-18T17:32:37Z 2005-07-18T17:32:37Z

I always order it on line ... renegade juggling, home of poi, etc. I found the one retail outlet in NYC that sells it takes a HUGE markup.

Reagan 2005-07-18T17:32:37Z .lady. http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#7c3f699c-85cd-4136-9c13-ac41668b5ce2 2005-07-18T17:21:31Z 2005-07-18T17:21:31Z

can someone tell me where to buy wicking in the Bay Area? thanks! :)

.lady. 2005-07-18T17:21:31Z Reagan http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#294ce867-b1bd-4fb4-8db4-f007b10d55ad 2005-07-12T00:09:01Z 2005-07-12T00:09:01Z

bump

Reagan 2005-07-12T00:09:01Z Surprise! http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#cf786ec1-29af-4a08-a2a8-b5b5197c4707 2005-04-08T21:26:11Z 2005-04-08T21:26:11Z

Anami, you rock. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!

Surprise! 2005-04-08T21:26:11Z anami http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#d0cf2e7f-61f2-43fc-bd8d-33109d6d42d0 2005-04-08T20:13:22Z 2005-04-08T20:13:22Z

i have a method for making the hoops which is very sturdy. Find poly- butaline thin wall (80psi) irrigation tubing which comes on a spool. That keeps you from having to bend the material. Other tubings other than poly butaline that i have hooped weigh about ten times more. ooh ooh i absolve all guilt here, assuming that you are all great hoopers who will not fling a lit hoop at your audience or anything. So take enough to make a hoop the size you want use a double ended polybutaline connector. If you are in the city you may need to go to your nearest rural area to get it. If you can not find it or can not get to the country, send me a message i can get my local place to ship it to you and it is less than $30 shipped for enough for 5-7 hoops depoending on size (this is super cheap as i get a discount here that i can transfer to you, they love fire hoopers at our local thurmans. a place in frisco special ordered some for me $65 and i cancelled the order after it had not arrived in over a month.) Anyway, access is availiable for tribe hoopers. ok putting together a fire hoop. You need 4-7 threaded round topped carriage bolts at least 6 1/2 long i like the 5/16 weight but use your discretion thicker is stronger thinner is lighter for each rigging you make (4-7, these are the spokes, more spokes = less space where you can touch the hoop) i use 5. Anyway, for each rigging You need three metal washers two one inch wide that will fit onto your bolts the third sized just smaller than your tubing of which there is a range of sizes from skinny 3/4 in to my favorite 1 1/4 inch. You will also need one large rubber washer for each rigging and 2 -3 feet of wick which i get from Renegade as linked abouve. You also need The same number and size of nuts as your bolts and the same number of rounded end lock nuts (rounded lock nuts are important or the nut will cut into the tubing and weaken the spoke.) Ok so, pout your hoop together. i like an offset weight inside to help with the gravitational pull, many hoop designs have a spoke going through the tubing creating an irittating place inside the hoop and inhibiting the flow of anything through the tubing for that extra centrifical kick. This pattern eliminates these problems. Put the tube together with the connector with the weight inside (marbles, hobbyset gravel (an audial favorite), slingshot pellets (for lots of weight) micro machine cars etc.) Now we get to the seceret ingreadient of all my hoops, because when people ask me how i make them, i like to say duct tape, Duct tape that sucker together! Now you have an anami style hoop, lets get flaming! Choices choices choices gotta love a customized hoop. There are two great ways to add wick to the carriage bolt. Put one meatal washer on the end, Now either a 2 -2 1/2 inch wide (deep) cathederal fold jammed onto the bolt. (mind that the washer on the end is an additional saftey precaution, but if you light the wick with your hand, obviously leave it off, i have never lost a wick for not having it, but it makes fire inspectors happier) The cathederal fold burns rather equally and cannot be easily replaced, expect to spend a while getting it on the spoke even using an awl or scissors to make a channel, but it is worth it for the security and perminance. If you are poor and you want to make the most of your wick you can roll the wick around the bolt and saftey pin it. Yes, folks safty pins and duct tape! Carry extra pins around with you because they will get weak rusty and burned, check them before every light. The benefit to this method is that only the outside layer of wick really burns, so when it starts fraying and getting nasty, you can take it off flip it around and have the whole other side of the strip to burn. So pick your method and finish the bottom with a washer and a nut. Now you have your riggings. Take a 6 inch section of remaining tubing and slit down the inside curve lengthwise. If you leave the tubing in the sun or in a handily convienient sauna you can do this with a pocket knife, if you belong to a group of hoopers or you make lots of hoops i reccomend a poly butaline cutter which is only about $12 and cuts the tubing effortlessly without crushing the sides. Poke a hole inthe middle of the 6 inch section, Stick the bolt throught the whole and add, in this order, the last metal washer, the rubber washer and the lock nut. So the wick is on the outside the nut and washers on the inside of the tube. Prepare all of them and then measure (or guesstamate) their locations on the hoop. Put bondo, or some such thing inside the tube.Clamp the fixture over the existing hoop and duct tape the heck out of it, to reduce the sensation of the edges. Use High tempature flu tape to cover the duct tape. Ta da! If you have any questions about this method, send me a message. i am sharing this seventh generation fire hoop design with you all because we share a love of spirals and fire. This is my intellectual property and has been for years, it is well documented. If you make any rendition of the hoop design indicated here and sell them for money, without coming to an agreement with me for my cut. You will face bad Karma and more. Don't do it, i will share the idea, but i won't be shishted, Kapeash? Make yourself one make them for friends barter them for tee shirts, trade them for massages, but if you make money off of it, i should too. Heack i have lost wicks into fuel dumps and had them fall on my head for years while developing these and more hoop ideas, to get the most indestructable high perpormance hoops. Don't take advantage of me. Thank you. ps. if this looks like too much work for you i sell them for $100 plus actual shipping, but no handling.

anami 2005-04-08T20:13:22Z $item.owner.firstName http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#193bb14e-7f3f-43e4-a614-d93fe436289b 2005-03-22T06:34:04Z 2005-03-22T06:34:04Z

Oohh! Pictures please Molly. :)

$item.owner.firstName 2005-03-22T06:34:04Z Molly http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#af030768-31b6-4a3c-92c5-b7aee500b403 2005-02-21T21:55:03Z 2005-02-21T21:55:03Z

Hello! Renegade Juggling is my local spot for purchasing kevlar, they also have a website, and they are a small business with great folks! http://www.renegadejuggling.com/Web_store/rev3k/index.html I'll try to remember to take picture of my setup, and post them so that you can see how we construct them. I've been thru 3 different designs, and think I've found the best way to have a sturdy, easily transportable, light setup. remind me if I don't do it soon! Best Wishes!

Molly 2005-02-21T21:55:03Z Alicia http://FireHooping.tribe.net/thread/489c912e-5ddd-4f27-bf91-fe57a69e0e1e#ef81c5ea-569f-4468-968e-3e220f42421c 2005-02-20T01:06:28Z 2005-02-20T01:06:28Z

we are trying to figure otu the best way to make our own fire hoops here in boston. does any one have any info on the best ways to put it together and where to find the spokes and kevlar wicks/balls ?? any help would be super apreciated! much love ~alicia

Alicia 2005-02-20T01:06:28Z